December 14 through 20, 2022
This week was a real testament to our Israeli hospitality and knowledge. Jeff Passe (friend from TBI) came to visit and we pretty much showed him all around Tel Aviv and Israel in one week (which is not nearly enough time 😏). This was mostly enjoyable and at times challenging 😐. I helped him plan his itinerary and wound up joining him for more than half of it. I still feel like a newbie here so playing tour guide was a stretch; I did my best 👩.
First I showed Jeff all around Tel Aviv and the beaches 🌴, or at least stuff that was walking distance from our apartment. I also took him to the "best falafel in Tel Aviv" (everyone says so; I think it's pretty good 👍). Art joined us for an afternoon/evening of seeing Jaffa which worked well but also involved a LOT of walking. I learned along the way that the Carmel Market claims to be open til 7pm but really starts to close up at 6pm (at least in the winter). And I learned that putting my trust in Google Maps is not always a great idea here. Note to self: restaurants on the map may not exist in real life 😒.
The following day Jeff and I headed out (with a rental car) to the north of Israel. We started with Rosh Hanikra which are gorgeous sea grottoes reached by cable car 🚠. The colors of the rock formations were beyond amazing 😍, and I've already decided I must visit them again before we leave Israel. Then we headed over to Tzfat (also called Safed and Tsfat and Tzvat...) to see this charming town filled with mysticism and artist colonies. We had such a struggle maneuvering the rental car in the narrow alleyways (thank goodness I insisted that Jeff drive) that a random stranger came to our rescue and literally drove us out of the tight spot. We may never see that man again but I truly believe he was an angel sent from heaven 👼. Our bed and breakfast place was super charming and we found a lovely and homey local dinner spot. Also picked up some jewelry souvenirs (not that I need more! 😅).
The next day Jeff drove me to Tiberias and I took the bus back to Tel Aviv. That timing worked well and allowed for a breather 😌. Plus I was able to meet up with one of my TBI friend's kids (Debbie Harris's daughter) for coffee the next day. She had made aliyah to Israel 10 years ago, spurred on by a great Birthright experience, so I got to hear all about the ex-pat experience. Mostly, she was eager to offer suggestions for good restaurants 🥘.
On Sunday Art and I headed to Jerusalem for 3 days, overlapping with Jeff for 2 of them. Our self-created tour included seeing Hadassah Hospital with the famous Chagall Windows 😀, the Dead Sea, a visit with Art's 2nd cousin (Lee) and his family for a Chanukah party (they live in the West Bank), Western Wall, Winter Lights show at the Botanical Gardens, and walks through numerous markets (which I never get tired of). Might have to return to Jerusalem again too 😉.
Our Dead Sea visit was perfect; it included direct transportation and 2 hours onsite. This time I got the hang of the floating and the mud soak, plus there were way fewer tourists (vs when we came 6 years ago). Highly recommend, especially before it all dries up from climate change 😕.
Our Winter Lights show was not as perfect since it was hidden on the campus of Hebrew University and very hard for our taxi driver to find (he wasn't a good taxi driver to start with). I almost wish we'd walked the 3 miles there 😒... the lights were similar to what we've seen in LA (Descanso Gardens) but a bit smaller and less showy. In retrospect, maybe we should have skipped it and found dinner sooner. (Interesting aside: the main restaurant at the Botanical Gardens happened to have a technical issue that night so they were completely closed. I feel like a restaurant in the US would never let this happen.😐)
We did get to see the Western Wall again (somehow it felt less magical than the first two times I saw it). Maybe it annoys me more now, seeing the separation of women and men, and knowing that women aren't allowed to read Torah there. We didn't even stay for the menorah lighting (though we did get the Chanukah vibe all around the city 🕎).
The visit with Art's cousin Lee was interesting; he made aliyah about 30 years ago and now lives in Israel with his 8 kids and 11 grand-kids (most of whom don't speak much English). They were all lovely and welcoming! I was surprised that the meal did not include latkes or even jelly donuts but it did have many other Israeli dishes. And I was disappointed that there were no candles lit because we arrived after sundown and they all lit them before arriving. I was also surprised that he made us figure out the somewhat complicated bus logistics instead of driving to pick us up.😐
Lots of travel and logistics, but I think it all gave Jeff a decent overview of the country, and solidified some of my knowledge as well. I have no desire to become a tour guide though. Too exhausting. I'm sure Jeff needs a vacation from this vacation (especially after getting sick from swallowing some Dead Sea water - yikes 😨).
We are now back in Tel Aviv (yay), Jeff headed out this morning, and we are spending the day getting ready for our big trip to Amsterdam tomorrow to see our girls!!
Deena and Art
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